A Road Trip to Uncover Cuba’s True Soul
Iconic Destination
Though best known for its rum and 1950s cars, Cuba offers many other treasures. But to find them, you need to take your time and stray off the beaten track. Nothing could be better than a Cuban road trip to discover the country's captivating Spanish-influenced architecture, its sandy beaches, and historical places, meeting cheerful, welcoming people along the way. Come with us as Antoine Gauvin takes us on our carefree way around the largest island in the Caribbean and shares the best places to visit in Cuba, accompanied by images from Claes Bech-Poulsen.
The best places to visit in Cuba: Havana and beyond
The sun is sinking, setting ablaze the cheerful façades of Old Havana. The sign of Floridita lights up to greet passers-by. This legendary bar where Hemingway had his own table still serves the best daiquiris in Cuba. Candy-coloured 1950s Dodge sedans with gleaming chrome trim are parked in front. Opposite, the restored façade of Gran Hotel Manzana Kempinski is brightly lit. This is where we start our Cuban road trip across the fascinating land of mambo and salsa. The island, with its mix of cultures and its gentle lifestyle, is 1,200 km long. We're heading for Cayo Guillermo, a small coral island north of the mainland where there's a new Kempinski hotel, a relaxed resort amid white sand beaches, turquoise sea and pink flamingos.
STOP ONE: BAY OF PIGS
Ciénaga de Zapata, the island's largest nature park, is a gigantic maze of mangroves between land and sea and a paradise for tropical birds. The park is home to Cuba's impressive nine feet long crocodiles, which stare at you with yellow eyes.
Nearby, the Bay of Pigs is not just a landmark of Cuban history, it's also heaven for snorkelling and diving. The seabed here is a kaleidoscope of fish darting around the corals in an endless flash of phosphorescent colours. We pause our journey long enough to explore beneath the waves of the Caribbean. Deep blue sky, music, cocktails - bliss! This is Cuba, gentle and full of joy, calm yet buzzing.
Embark upon your own Cuban road trip, starting with a stay at Gran Hotel Manzana Kempinski
STOP TWO: CIENFUEGOS
Cienfuegos, the 'pearl of the south', is tucked away in a tranquil bay, with opulent mansions that tell the rich tale of Cuba's sugar trade. Palacio de Valle, a prime example, mixes Gothic, Venetian and Moorish styles. If you take the hidden staircase behind the Neo-Moorish arcade, a surprise awaits: a splendid terrace café serving welcome refreshments. Cienfuegos's historic centre, with its Neo-Classical colonnades, has UNESCO World Heritage status. Next morning, before leaving, we visit one of the largest botanical gardens in Latin America, with nearly 200 species of palm and cactus, and plus massive banyan trees.
STOP THREE: TRINIDAD
Our second overnight stop on this Cuban road trip is Trinidad, another UNESCO-designated treasure. Time travelling again! Cuba's decades of isolation have enabled it to preserve its old-time style. The streets are still paved with river cobbles and the large central porches of the townhouses still lead straight into living rooms. Here, there's no strict boundary between indoors and out; people exchange greetings between home and street and the two tall windows typical of Trinidad's houses are wide open day and night. When evening falls, lively conversation takes place by the light of old street lamps. We head for a 16th-century palace that's now a restaurant. The owner has kept the decor intact, There's a trio playing 'Son Cubano', music with an African tempo and Spanish influences. A rare and delicious moment.
No one comes to Havana without taking a ride in a Cadillac convertible. Cuba's 1950s American cars have been granted ‘national monu-ment’ status. Incredibly well maintained, they are now one of Cuba's landmarks. The Neo-Classical Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes dating from 1913 and the 1915 Neo-Baroque Gran Teatro de La Habana are two of Havana's most emblematic buildings. They embody the capital's past wealth and cultural life. Floridita bar, famous for its daiquiris, has preserved its 1950’s decor, when it was Hemingway's favourite haunt.
Cuban dancing on the patio of the Quince-Catorce restaurant-museum in Trinidad, a fine example of the country's 16th century colonial architecture.
Cayo Guillermo is one of a string of unspoilt islands off the north coast of Cuba. It can be reached by a 27 km causeway built in 1988. Wooden huts under the palm trees serve delicious grilled lobster. The seabed of the coral reef offers a magnificent sight for snorkellers or from a glass-bottomed boat. Pink flamingoes, their feathers tinted by the quantities of shrimp they eat, are among the many species of bird that inhabit the untamed mangrove swamp.
In the early morning, as a cart rattles by, it's time for us to leave and head north. Crossing the island, we discover the Jardines del Rey islands, a sanctuary for pink flamingos and royal palms. These coral islands are said to have been the lair of pirates.
Thoughts of pirates vanish at the sight of endless white sand beaches, turquoise sea and white egrets perched on old sea-bleached tree trunks. Palm groves add a touch of soft green to the monochrome of sea and sky.
"I like to listen. I have learned a great deal from listening carefully. Most people never listen."
— Ernest Hemingway —
STOP FOUR: CAYO GUILLERMO
This small unspoilt island is our final stop. Named after Hemingway's boat, Playa Pilar is one of Cuba's finest beaches. After this colourful 700 km tour it's time to enjoy the clear, warm water, the music and the authentic kindness of the Cubans. Grilled lobster, glass-bottomed boats and idle hours lie ahead.
The white sands of Playa Pilar are flanked by crystal-clear turquoise waters.
Cuba is a feast for all the senses, with wooden huts serving up a range of local delicacies.
The seabed of the coral reef can be explored by snorkelling or from a glass-bottomed boat.
