Dresden: Baroque gems and royal treasures

Dresden’s historic centre takes you on a journey to a rich and exciting past which bears the imprint of successive kings. It began with Frederick Augustus (1670-1733) who visited Florence when he was a young prince and was captivated by its elegance. The man who would become ‘Augustus the Strong’ resolved to build an architectural jewel on the banks of the Elbe. He gathered further inspiration from his travels around Europe’s royal courts, in particular, Louis XIV’s Versailles. Augustus the Strong enriched his collections with paintings, prints, drawings, sculptures, jewellery, medals and, most of all, porcelain. Today, Dresden is still known as the ‘Florence of the Elbe’, and has retained the grandeur it acquired under that cultivated, visionary sovereign.

Retrace the steps of the kings while soaking up the atmosphere of the city with this guide to Dresden’s top attractions. 

1. ALTSTADT

Located beside the Elbe, Altstadt (the old town), is almost an open-air museum. It includes the Taschenbergpalais built in 1705 by Johann Friedrich Karcher for Anna Constantia, Countess of Cosel. Now Hotel Taschenbergpalais Kempinski, it reopened in 2024 following a magnificent year-long renovation. 

 2. ZWINGER

Steps away, you’ll find the Zwinger, commissioned in 1709 by Augustus the Strong, an admirer of Louis XIV and Versailles. A masterpiece of Baroque architecture with pavilions, galleries and gardens, the Zwinger is now a magnificent museum complex.

Sit a while in its vast formal garden and you can imagine the extravagant soirées, tournaments, carnivals and festivities that took place there. Around the garden, six rococo pavilions house the Zwinger treasures. Visit the Mathematisch-Physikalischer Salon to marvel at historic clocks and scientific instruments. The Old Masters’ Gallery is another highlight, with paintings by Botticelli, Titian and Veronese, as well as Raphael’s Sistine Madonna, considered to be one of the greatest masterpieces of the Renaissance. Augustus the Saxon, successor of Augustus the Strong, bought this rare treasure when his father converted to Catholicism. Its purchase was made possible by the intervention of Pope Benedict XIV and it was so greatly coveted that it was disguised as a poor-quality mountain landscape for its journey to Dresden.

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3. ZWINGER PORCELAIN MUSEUM

Perhaps the most precious legacy left by Augustus the Strong – the Zwinger porcelain museum – is another must-see. In the 18th century, porcelain from China and Japan was known as ‘white gold’ and Europe’s elite all wanted their own pieces. Collectors filled their cabinets with rare and precious items and Augustus’s collection quickly became the finest in the world. More than 450 life-size animals including monkeys, birds and bears are on display in the Zwinger today along with Augustus’s Chinese and Japanese collections. 

4. THE STALLHOF

Walk along the imposing façade of the nearby Residenzschloss (Dresden Castle) and you come to a network of small, paved streets with pretty pastel-coloured façades. The arcades of the palace Stallhof, or stable yard, are a fine example of Dresden’s Italian influences. The rich decoration has been made by the Italian sgraffito technique. Don’t miss the intricate Fürstenzug (Procession of the Princes) frieze on the outside wall. Renowned as the world’s largest porcelain artwork, it shows a mounted procession of the 35 men who governed Saxony between 1127 and 1904.

5. THE FRAUENKIRCHE

Still in Altstadt, the Frauenkirche was once considered the country’s finest Lutheran church. Bombed in 1945, it lay in ruins for decades. Its faithful reconstruction after Germany’s reunification symbolises the city’s renewal and rebuilding was completed in the autumn of 2005. Inside, admire the Baroque altar and organ, the rich ornaments and the impressive dome with its figurative paintings.

6. BRÜHL’S TERRACE

Closer to the Elbe, Brühl’s Terrace is a 600-metre promenade lined with outstanding Baroque and Neoclassical buildings that looks out across the water. It was designed by Count Heinrich von Brühl, Minister of State under Augustus the Strong. Brühl designed a garden, a library, a gallery, a belvedere and a palace. Then the Kunstakademie (Academy of Fine Art) was built, with its remarkable lemon-squeezer dome. Take the grand staircase, where 19th-century high society liked to see and be seen, for a splendid open view of the Elbe and Dresden’s north bank.

7. THE SEMPEROPER

Music is at the heart of Dresden life and further down the riverbank, the Semperoper has always played a central role in German opera. Most of Richard Strauss’s operas and several of Richard Wagner’s early successes premiered here. The list of lead soloists and conductors associated with the Semperoper reads like a Who’s Who of the music world over recent centuries. Music lovers come from all over Germany and Europe for the performances.

8. NEUSTADT

Crossing the Elbe to Neustadt we return to the town centre and discover a rather different atmosphere around Alaunstrasse and Louisenstrasse. In the charming, busy streets of this hip neighbourhood you’ll discover a vibrant concentration of bars, clubs and restaurants which come alive in the evenings and at weekends to a backing of techno, rock or hip-hop. 

But if you prefer something a little more peaceful, the Biergartens (beer gardens) along the river are perfect for relaxing with a cool glass of beer while mingling with the locals. Here you can enjoy the view that inspired Canaletto to paint the city’s domes and belltowers. Today, restored to their former glory, they are reflected in the tranquil water of the river.

9. PFUNDS MOLKEREI

Away from the main attractions, the Pfunds brothers’ dairy shop in the Outer Neustadt is the perfect travel anecdote. Famous for its hand-painted tiles dating from 1892, in 1997 it entered the Guinness World Records as “the world’s most beautiful dairy shop”. Pop in to enjoy a glass of fresh milk or a cheese platter, or buy some of the region’s speciality cheeses.

10. MEISSEN PORCELAIN MANUFACTORY

For an immersive insight into Dresden’s history, travel 40 minutes by car to the Meissen Porcelain Manufactory – the first producer of hard-paste porcelain outside of China and Japan. The Meissen potters pushed technology to its limits, resulting in extraordinary, fragile creations in pure white translucent porcelain.

The Meissen Porcelain Manufactory now has 300 years of tradition and craftsmanship on its side, and still exports its hand-made, hand-painted pieces throughout the world. Craft workers today maintain this unique skill in the vast buildings. You can take a tour, learn the secrets of the craft and see the finest pieces of the present as well as the past. You can even paint your own piece of Meissen porcelain, have it fired it in a traditional kiln, then send it to your home.

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A stay steeped in history

Regally holding its place in Dresden’s breathtaking historic old town stands the recently and impressively renovated Taschenbergpalais. Built in 1705 by Augustus the Strong and gifted to his mistress, Anna Constantia, Countess of Cosel, its beauty and grace fired the artistic passions of the many notable people who lived there. 

In 1995, this magnificent property was reborn as Hotel Taschenbergpalais Kempinski – Saxony’s first five-star luxury hotel. The 2023  renovation has breathed new life into this historic property with a focus on innovation and sustainability while honouring the past. Nowhere is this more evident than at the entrance where two statues of a young, seemingly modern couple make a bold statement. Take a closer look and you’ll discover that these figures are a contemporary interpretation of the couple who are intrinsic to the property’s history – Augustus the Strong and Anna Constantina.

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