Yucatán, the Land of the Maya

Landing in Cancún, we find ourselves in a land of mystery. But where does this feeling come from?

First impressions are delightful: warmth, a blue sky, an enchanting sea, and lush vegetation. This land is made for rest and relaxation. But other images float through our minds: plumed gods, jaguars, spirits living deep in the earth or water. This is the land of the Maya. We’ve all heard of their pyramids or seen pictures of their cryptic hieroglyphs, but little is known of this great civilisation that occupied the area 2,000 years ago.

The Yucatán Peninsula in southern Mexico juts out between the Caribbean and the Gulf of Mexico – a paradise of fine sands! In the large beachside town of Cancún, hotels including Kempinski Hotel Cancún line up along the shore, gazing out onto a stunningly beautiful sea.

TULUM AND THE DESCENDING GOD

Tempting as it is, we leave the beach for a while to explore Maya mysteries, starting at the small walled town of Tulum. These days Tulum is a well-known resort town but it was once a major Maya city, built on a magnificent clifftop above the sea.

Here we find a temple dedicated to a strange divinity known as the Descending God, about which little is known. Depicted head down and feet up, he might be connected with the setting sun, or fertility, or the souls of warriors. The Maya had a complex and mysterious pantheon of several hundred gods, one to watch over every action and aspect of human life. All were closely related to nature, from the sky (an invisible realm of the celestial spirits) and earth (the visible realm). 

VALLADOLID AND CHICHÉN ITZÁ

There is also a mysterious underworld in Yucatán, accessible through the sacred cenotes. The cenotes are natural wells or underground pools of crystal-clear water – astonishing places and a famous geological curiosity. Some are connected by a vast network of underground rivers that is still largely unexplored, and others are as big as swimming pools. It’s wonderful to swim in the cool, clear water surrounded by stalactites and stalagmites and it’s an unforgettable outing for anyone staying in Yucatán.

Some of the finest cenotes are located around Valladolid, a small, Spanish colonial-style town in the centre of Yucatán, two hours from Cancún. The high-fronted San Servasio temple, pretty houses with colourful façades, and its relaxing atmosphere, make Valladolid the ideal place for enjoying a delicious ceviche or carnitas (pork tacos) before heading to nearby Chichén Itzá. This must-see Maya city is one of the region’s most important archaeological sites.

The Kukulcán Pyramid, and dozens of other monuments, attest to the outstanding skills of their architects and astronomers. Its architectural composition is fascinating. Governed by the Maya calendar, it shows exactly how this people calculated the solar cycle. For starters, its four sides comprise 365 steps. And at the equinox, something very special happens: the descending sun creates a shadow that suggests the rippling movement of Kukulcán, the famous plumed serpent, descending the steps.

With its exceptional location and pristine beach, Kempinski Hotel Cancún is the perfect base to discover the land of the Maya

Most spectacular of all, this many-stepped pyramid is built on top of a cenote surrounded by four others, one at each of the cardinal points. Many researchers think the Chichén Itzá site has a complex relationship with its unexplored underground passages, galleries and rivers. Some think the Maya cast objects and even humans into one of the many wells as offerings to appease the rain god, Chaac, in times of drought.

EK BALAM AND ITZAM YEH

Of all the Maya gods, we are looking for the most extraordinary: the great bird called Itzam Yeh, one of the manifestations of the supreme god, Itzamná. There can be no doubt about the legendary power of Itzam Yeh. The bird is described as carrying the days and nights under its wings and possessing a sharp beak that can vanquish any evil power.

The jungle has a powerful pull and we can’t wait to explore the mysterious mangroves. So we set off for Rio Lagartos, stopping on the way at Ek Balam – another Maya city hidden in the forest. After pausing to admire the Ek Balam Pyramid, we find a vast mangrove forest stretching into the Gulf of Mexico. This wild and imposing labyrinth has barely changed in the past 2,000 years. It is the realm of crocodiles and magnificent birds: pelicans, white ibis, frigate birds, great herons, and pink flamingos. We’re convinced this is where the soul of Itzam Yeh dwells, embodied in one of these great birds, or perhaps in all of them at once. A protector that watches over day and night as it has for several millennia. And it’s at this moment that we really feel the soul of the Maya.

Whether you journey out to seek Maya treasures or choose to unwind by the pool, Kempinski Hotel Cancún is the perfect base for an unforgettable moment in Mexico. 

Kempinski Hotel Cancún

After long days spent discovering Maya treasures, Kempinski Hotel Cancún invites you to slow down and take in another Yucután icon – the pristine white sands of Quintana Roo.

Located 25 minutes from Cancún International Airport, guests can choose between 363 elegant rooms and spacious suites, each with private balconies that look out onto a 400 m stretch of perfect sand and seemingly endless views of the turquoise Caribbean Sea.

Throughout the hotel, the Yucatán influence resonates. At the centre, a four-storey ivy-lined atrium gives a nod to nearby tropical rainforests and magical cenotes, while the treatments at the Kayantá Spa take inspiration from ancient Maya therapies.

At mealtimes, diversity is on the menu. Indoors or outdoors; sophisticated fine-dining or light snacks; local or international – the hotel’s six restaurants offer a range of cuisines and settings to suit your mood at any time of the day. With services including a dedicated reception and concierge, those staying in club rooms and suites also get access to the exclusive dining, selection of drinks and fine wine served throughout the day in The Club Lounge. Located on the eighth floor, the views of the sunset are unbeatable.

But it’s by the water that you’ll be keen to spend your days. Take a dip in one of the two temperature-controlled outdoor pools or stroll along the shores of the shimmering sea. For the best in carefree beachside luxury, thatched palapas are dotted along the coast, offering privacy and shade to recline complete with personalised service and a host of refreshing amenities.

Whether you’re in search of these perfect sandy beaches, underwater exploration or Maya artefacts, Kempinski Hotel Cancún is at the centre of the Yucatán Peninsula’s many treasures. 

If you liked this, get more Yucatán travel inspiration from Tim Johnson’s account of his time in Cancún.